Naturally, my trip started at the airport. As a non-Jewish adult male, traveling to Israel alone with carry-on baggage only, I was sure to get to JFK super early. I flew on El Al Airlines which is widely acknowledged as the world's most secure airline. They interview every single passenger and have zero proclivity about being politically correct.
My interview was short. I was told to come back for my luggage so they could inspect it, which they did, thoroughly. Upon my return, I was assigned two lovely airline personnel who escorted me to the gate, waited there with me, and escorted me onto the plane once it boarded.
I've never felt safer on any form of public transportation. The staff provided great customer service trying to ease the effects of the 10-hour flight. The lady at customs stamped my passport with a weary eye and at last I arrived in Tel Aviv.
***
I was embedded with 22 other Jewish Federation professionals from all over North America. All of them had been before and they were gracious in helping me to understand stuff along the way. After meeting my group, we pulled in to the Intercontinental Tel Aviv for luggage drop off and got back on the road to start the tour.
Our walking tour guide is a woman named Karen. She wound us through the old parts of Jaffa including the rooftop balcony view at Mishkenot Ruth Daniel Guest House, a stop at 100+ year-old Bakery Said Abuelafia and Sons, and the tourist overlook of the Tel Aviv skyline and beach. Also, we got one group photo and I'm the one NOT looking at the camera.
We explore a mosque and St Peter's Church and end at an ancient Jewish cemetery, in the midst of the city, juxtaposed to the nearby ultra luxurious Andromeda residences.
Following a quick refresh at the hotel it was time for dinner at the beautiful Carlton Tel Aviv. It is an incredible six-course meal that includes gazpacho, a mushroom and noodle dish, squash soup, beef tartar, and a lamb pot pie. This was followed by a chocolate buffet for dessert. Everyone is in a food coma.
Back at the hotel I discover the new joy of jet lag. I attributed it it part to being so crazy excited about being here. Estimated amount of sleep: About 30 min.
***
Downstairs at 6:30 am watching the hustle and bustle of the city while enjoying fresh Israeli salad as a part of my breakfast. The tour bus departs just after 8 am, heading toward the Negev, the desert region of southern Israel that constitutes about half of the country.
We stop to see a field covered with the red "flower of David". It grows wild in Israel, thriving in the harsh dry conditions that would kill many other plants. Our spunky tour guide, Michal Granot, is a fountain of information. Back on the bus, heading south.
We stop to see a field covered with the red "flower of David". It grows wild in Israel, thriving in the harsh dry conditions that would kill many other plants. Our spunky tour guide, Michal Granot, is a fountain of information. Back on the bus, heading south.
We tour the Nitzana Project which features many hands-on applications in solar energy and water conservation. A tower supplies solar energy to a fan at the top which, when combined with fine water misters, make the temperature inside 20 degrees cooler, even during the summer. We ride bikes out into the desert and crowded into a narrow tunnel where we listened to a french cellist. The music notes soar through the tunnel and us.
On the way back we saw an old Roman outpost and the Egyptian border.
Lunch was a smorgasbord with a delicious pea soup, salad and some schnitzel. Then it was off to Mitzpe Ramon, where we stood on the edge of a 1.2 mile drop into the naturally made Ramon Crater.
Heading north we stop to find a local family-operated winery. Small sturdy trees line the desert slopes. The owner is Eyal, a modest man who is more concerned about the quality of his life over the size of his paycheck. The techniques he uses are simple and have been around since the times of the Bible. He talks about his process and hiring Bedouins for labor and security. I'm not a wine guy but the Cabernet Sauvignon was unbelievably good. I also enjoyed the Port.
The sun has long set as the bus heads back to the hotel. We stop, seemingly in the middle of nowhere, and are led up a natural path lit by torches every few meters.
At the top of the hill we find the ancient ruins in the Shivta National Park. Inside is a live jazz band, courtesy of The School of Music in the Ramat-Ha-Negev Community Center. I video their first song (below). Wine and cheese make the rounds. At one point, all of the lights are turned off and the band plays under a starry biblical night. It is an unforgettable moment.
Video:
At the top of the hill we find the ancient ruins in the Shivta National Park. Inside is a live jazz band, courtesy of The School of Music in the Ramat-Ha-Negev Community Center. I video their first song (below). Wine and cheese make the rounds. At one point, all of the lights are turned off and the band plays under a starry biblical night. It is an unforgettable moment.
Video:
Just down the trail, we devour a family-style dinner. Fatigued from the hiking, I manage about 3 hours of sleep.
***
We awake in the kibbutz community called Mashabei Sade. I have breakfast with an immigrant named Igor who came from Russia by way of London, (hence the english accent). He explains his humble beginnings as an Israeli. We visit the children's programs, including a classroom and the rest of the large community. They even have an indoor pool during the winter.
We then head to the Ramat Negev Desert Agro Research Center (RNDARC) where we learned about water conservation and techniques using brackish water to yield plump and longer-lasting cherry tomatoes on the vine. Delicious! Peppers, tomatoes and salt plant were also being grown, as were select flowers. The salt plant is known to help rats with diabetes in testing. It literally tastes like salt and would be fantastic on a salad.
Next, we paid a visit to Ben-Gurion’s Tomb National Park. Here, the graves of David and Paula Ben-Gurion overlook a breathtaking view of the Tsin canyon. The path from the parking lot to the grave site goes through a garden of carefully protected vegetation.
"David Ben-Gurion, who declared the establishment of the state of Israel and became its first prime minister, was arguably one of the most outstanding figures of the 20th century. Not only did he dream that the Negev could flourish, he and Paula practiced what he preached by becoming members of Kibbutz Sde Boker in 1953. In 1963, the couple retired to a modest ‘hut’ on the kibbutz, where they lived a simple lifestyle that amazed the bevy of world leaders who visited Ben-Gurion at home over the years." - www.parks.org.il
"David Ben-Gurion, who declared the establishment of the state of Israel and became its first prime minister, was arguably one of the most outstanding figures of the 20th century. Not only did he dream that the Negev could flourish, he and Paula practiced what he preached by becoming members of Kibbutz Sde Boker in 1953. In 1963, the couple retired to a modest ‘hut’ on the kibbutz, where they lived a simple lifestyle that amazed the bevy of world leaders who visited Ben-Gurion at home over the years." - www.parks.org.il
While at the park, we met Sde, a member of a non-profit association that aims to develop community ownership and activism in the Negev. As she spoke, Israeli Air Force helicopters and jets periodically screamed by overhead. Rav explained that pilots reach the Israel border immediately after take off and have to fly over parts of Egypt and Jordan in order to complete maneuvers. Sde mentioned that when asked why the jets needed to fly directly over Ben Gurion's grave, the IDF replied simply, "To go around would waste fuel."
Ben Gurion wouldn't mind. Back to the bus!
Ben Gurion wouldn't mind. Back to the bus!
We stop at the Center for Independent Living, which is "a community-based multi-service center designed, managed and operated by disabled persons." The operation includes a restaurant beneath an all-weather tent modeled after a traditional Bedouin tent. We have lunch and listened to inspirational stories from residents and the founder.
The Bedouin are traditionally pastoral semi-nomadic Arab tribes indigenous to the Negev region. Estimated to number some 160,000, they comprise 12% of the Arab citizenry of Israel. We passed many Bedouin camps. They live in small communities of tents or tin shacks with both cars and camels parked out front. We leave on a brand new highway that shortens the distance to Jerusalem.
We also pass through the valley where David fought Goliath.
The new highway follows the West Bank and the barrier that separates it from Israel. I never appreciated how close the settlements sit to each other. It's quite cozy actually.
We stop in Beit Shemesh to meet with members of the Ethiopian National Project. The visit, (located in a bomb shelter), included stories and role-play activity about the dilemmas they have faced in providing educational and social needs to the Ethiopian community.
We stop in Beit Shemesh to meet with members of the Ethiopian National Project. The visit, (located in a bomb shelter), included stories and role-play activity about the dilemmas they have faced in providing educational and social needs to the Ethiopian community.
We enter Jerusalem and check-in to the Inbal Hotel. I receive a 30-minute massage and enjoyed another huge meal including: salmon in guacamole-wasabi sauce, frois gras (I declined), roasted sea bass and spinach ravioli, cream of chestnut soup, rack of lamb, and apple sorbet. Another food coma. Estimated sleep time: 3 hours.
***
After breakfast at the hotel we are off to the Machane Yehuda, an open air market which was brisk and busy. It wasn't crowded yet but it soon would be and you can sort of feel it. Fresh pomegranate, huge strawberries, fish, nuts, spices. Interesting smells and lots of color everywhere you look. It was here that we meet the foxy Tali Friedman, a local chef with a gorgeous studio located at the start of the market. The second floor consists of a modern kitchen with a long dining table, an apéritif room and a bathroom. The windows look out onto the market. She then leads us to the rooftop that she's planning to turn into a dining area.
Tali gave us a tour of the market, sampling the local wares along the way. Breads, fish, pomegranate. But there were also vendors who were also selling clothes, coffee, DVDs and prepared food. Back in her studio, she forced upon us red wine and various cheeses. It is 9 am.
Next stop, is the scenic Sataf on the slopes of Mt. Eitan. They practice old-school agriculture, with no machinery or pesticides, on the remains of a 4000 BC village. They use impressive techniques of water conservation and irrigation. The hike down into the village was fun and the unusually warm winter weather made for a beautiful day.
All of that hiking has drained us of valuable resources. We need wine and cheese, asap. Enter a man by the name of Shai Zeltzer. Shai has a goat farm where he produces some fantastic cheese. He is humble and charismatic and looks like a goat farmer with a long, white beard and thick glasses.
I listen to him intently while sucking on an olive oil soaked rosebud. The cheese flavors depended solely on what the goats ate. Some of it has even decreased breast tumors in lab rats! It was so delicious. All of it. On the way back we stop at Kibbutz Tzuba for a late lunch and further wine tasting.
All of that hiking has drained us of valuable resources. We need wine and cheese, asap. Enter a man by the name of Shai Zeltzer. Shai has a goat farm where he produces some fantastic cheese. He is humble and charismatic and looks like a goat farmer with a long, white beard and thick glasses.
I listen to him intently while sucking on an olive oil soaked rosebud. The cheese flavors depended solely on what the goats ate. Some of it has even decreased breast tumors in lab rats! It was so delicious. All of it. On the way back we stop at Kibbutz Tzuba for a late lunch and further wine tasting.
Back in Jerusalem and refreshed, colleagues Pam and Rebecca led me to the Western Wall to experience the start of Shabbat. It was a moment of unforgettable energy and harmony.
The evening is capped by another meal at the David Citadel Hotel, and features the very entertaining and personable, Assael Romanelli. He does improv which I would have loved to have seen.
You would think that after a day of traveling, hiking and continuous wine ingestion that I would have slept well. Instead, I went to Sayuri's Katana, a sushi bar around the corner from the hotel. It was there that I met the bartender Avi, (a political science major) and Orinen, (a computer guy). We drank scotch and ate sushi while discussing computers, Barack Obama and music. Suddenly, it was 2:30 am. It was totally worth it though I didn't take a single picture. Got 4 hours of sleep which helped.
***
We get the early tour of the very posh Mamilla Hotel, which is parked across the street from the David Citadel. The Waldorf Astoria is going up nearby. All of these big, luxurious buildings look down on the tiny Old City. It's a little disjointed.
After that, we followed our trusted tour guide, Michal, on foot into the Old City. Our group is also issued a Jason Bourne-type bodyguard who follows closely. He doesn't say much but he gets us through the security checkpoint super quick. Michal first brings us to the Maronite Patriarchal Exarchate. It is a splendid overlook of the city and we had the place to ourselves for some time.
We walk briskly through the Shuk on our way to the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. But first, we needed a lunch break and I get to experience a real falafel. It's so good!
After that, we followed our trusted tour guide, Michal, on foot into the Old City. Our group is also issued a Jason Bourne-type bodyguard who follows closely. He doesn't say much but he gets us through the security checkpoint super quick. Michal first brings us to the Maronite Patriarchal Exarchate. It is a splendid overlook of the city and we had the place to ourselves for some time.
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We walk briskly through the Shuk on our way to the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. But first, we needed a lunch break and I get to experience a real falafel. It's so good!
Inside the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, among other things, were the last five Stations of the Cross. (Key moments during the crucifixion of Jesus). The most popular of which were: the rock on which his crucifix sat, the slab on which his body was lain, and his tomb. There are long lines for everything. The tomb is very crowded and dim and wildly ornate.
We conclude the walking tour at The Shuk, where Michal says her goodbyes. With a bit of free time I explore and make some purchases. Walking through the narrow alleys is bit surreal. Shops selling colorful cloth and shiny pieces of antiquity suddenly give way to a McDonalds. Old meets new. Crowded streets give way to deserted streets.
Video:
Off to La Guta for dinner. Anyone who had been there prior raved about the food. They squished us into the dining room with another group, which wouldn't have been all that bad, but the tasting menu was delivered on an army of plates. Space was tight but the food was indeed delicious.
Next, the Tower of David for the Night Spectacular, a dazzling sight and sound experience. No pictures allowed as they will confiscate your camera. Afterwards, the hotel bar Scala gave us the chance to relax before bed. I get some decent sleep, about 5 hours.
***
The morning is jam packed with final mission events.
1: We meet Dr. Shrir Dor, who offers a presentation about his arrival to Haiti two days after the major earthquake. He talks about the delivery of the baby named Israel, and how they left two prenatal incubators behind because Haiti NEVER had them prior to the storm. Powerful stuff.
2: We visit the Foreign Ministry. They take my passport at the front desk and exchange it for a lanyard and badge. Once settled in the auditorium, we meet Ido Aharoni, head of Brand Management Affairs for the Israel Ministry. His presentation dishes out tons of data but keeps a sense of humor. He talks about preconceptions, international propaganda and the processes of marketing a country. I'm so into it.
3: Omanoot is a non-profit educational center which offers access to Israeli music, film and art through its website. We meet with the director of education, Lindsay Citerman, who shows us a powerful movie about the Israeli Defense Force draft and opened a dialogue about it. (Every Israeli citizen serves two years in the IDF.)
One last six-course meal, this time at the scenic Mt. Zion Hotel. Lunch consists of fillet of salmon, artichoke soup, endive salad with pomegranate and pecan, beef and chicken with lentils, and fresh vanilla basil ice cream. We also got a tour of the facility, including the steam bath.
We ended the trip with a summary at the Ben Shemen Youth Village. We toured the grounds via tractor, had dinner and debriefed about the week. The majority of the group then departs for the airport and I head back to the hotel for a decent night's sleep.
***
I wake up ready to go. Coffee and a walk into the Old City with Pam and we part ways near the very unique jewelry store Hadaya. I'm now solo.
I walk atop the old city walls via the Ramperts Walk from the Jaffa Gate toward to the Dung Gate. I have it mostly to myself and the views are terrific. Then I went underground for the Western Wall Tunnel Tour though it was too dark for photos.
I walk atop the old city walls via the Ramperts Walk from the Jaffa Gate toward to the Dung Gate. I have it mostly to myself and the views are terrific. Then I went underground for the Western Wall Tunnel Tour though it was too dark for photos.
It's time to visit the Temple Mount and I am third in line at the entrance when the guard abruptly shuts the gate saying it is closed. A young guy who had already entered comes back pointing at the people ahead of me to saying, "They're with me!" The guard begrudgingly opens the door reminding us it's almost closing time. I squeak inside. The gate shuts behind me.
The Mount is open and airy and not very crowded. The Dome of the Rock sits quietly in the middle. I find an Asian women who is also taking photos. We don't speak each other's language yet we still manage to take each other's picture.
I scale the far wall so as to get a shot of The Mount of Olives and get exactly one photo before two guards with machine guns come to escort me out.
"We are closed."
I scale the far wall so as to get a shot of The Mount of Olives and get exactly one photo before two guards with machine guns come to escort me out.
"We are closed."
Then it's time for some inner reflection at the Western Wall.
Video:
I wander through the Old City streets, through the muslim quarter past lots of shops and restaurants and people of all varieties. There's a stop for another falafel. I negotiate for a delicate souvenir in the Armenian quarter.
Went to Sayuri's Katana again for a sushi dinner but Avi was not working. Slept very soundly.
***
My last day in Israel and I'm up early for a morning walk in the Old City, exploring and stopping to get some zatar bread.
Then it was straight up Jaffa Street for my appointment with Orel at Master Tattoo. I ask for a hamsa and in minutes she draws a cool mockup. Once approved, she plugs in the gun, cranks up some Fall Out Boy and with a devilish smile says, "Let's shove some ink." She enjoys her job.
I enjoy lunch with a view in the executive lounge at the hotel.
Then it's time to grab a local sherut to go to the airport. The driver has no concept of speed limits or fear. 50 shekels is a low price for such an exciting ride. El Al goes through my luggage with maniacal precision but they do a crap job of putting it back together. Time to settle in for the 13-hour flight home.
Then it was straight up Jaffa Street for my appointment with Orel at Master Tattoo. I ask for a hamsa and in minutes she draws a cool mockup. Once approved, she plugs in the gun, cranks up some Fall Out Boy and with a devilish smile says, "Let's shove some ink." She enjoys her job.
I enjoy lunch with a view in the executive lounge at the hotel.
Then it's time to grab a local sherut to go to the airport. The driver has no concept of speed limits or fear. 50 shekels is a low price for such an exciting ride. El Al goes through my luggage with maniacal precision but they do a crap job of putting it back together. Time to settle in for the 13-hour flight home.
I leave Israel stunned. So much history and energy. The people are absolutely beautiful and engaging. The food is delicious and healthy. The scenery is gorgeous. There are so many different facets of the country, from the biblical and beautiful Negev desert to the modern skyline of Tel Aviv, in contrast to the old city of Jerusalem. I want to come back and see more.
Jerusalem feels like the center of the universe. Perhaps it is.
THE END
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